A PROMISE KENNELS

ARE WE DIFFERENT? We hope so!! We hope you can see that we are different than the backyard breeders (BYBs) or the puppy millers! (Tony - in the photo on the right, says WE'RE OUTSTANDING iIN OUR FIELD! ;-))However, in order to help you out, and maybe answer a question or two that may have formed in your mind, here are some questions that a Puppy Person emailed to Judy, and our subsequent answers. Should you have ANY other questions, PLEASE call or email them! Our thanks to Gloria H. & Steven M. for these EXCELLENT questions!

####1) What makes Promise Kennels different than other breeders?
ANSWER: Well, I can't truly answer for other breeders. However, in addition to the following list of what an ethical hobby breeder is, we also offer rebates ($50) once the pup is spayed/neutered because it is important to us that the puppies on limited registration cannot be bred. We also offer rebates for any titles the dog receives (these are listed in our contract). Our dogs are bred for a purpose, as stated on our website, not just to "make puppies". I CAN tell you that there IS a difference between backyard breeders and puppy millers versus the true hobby breeder.

The following are points to keep in mind when you are talking with any breeder you are planning on getting a puppy from. I hope this helps! This first list is what a true hobby breeder is/will do:

1. The goal of breeding is to IMPROVE THE BREED. Improving the breed means the breeder has taken all necessary steps to produce puppies that come as close to the breed standard as possible, and have the necessary traits that the breed was created for. Simply put, the breeder should be striving to improve the breed's FORM AND FUNCTION.

2. The breeding stock and their offspring are evaluated, tested and certified to confirm that they are truly improving the breed or preserving the breed's form and function. This is accomplished through dog sports such as: conformation shows, obedience, field trials, hunting, therapy work, assistance/service work, agility, etc. The breeder actively participates in these activities to constantly evaluate the form and function of his chosen breed; to gather more knowledge and information about the breed; and to find the right breeding stock for his next generation of better puppies.

3. The breeder ensures that his breeding stock is checked and certified by recognized registries (OFA, CERF, etc.) to be free of inheritable health problems, and is of the proper age for breeding. Copies of health certificates should be given to prospective puppy buyers, and the originals should be available to the puppy buyers as proof of the health screens. WE believe the dam should be at least two years old and less than nine; the sire should be at least two years old and less than ten.
4. The breeder can explain why s/he made the breeding. S/he should know what his lines produce; including health and conformation faults, and take the necessary steps to weed out those faults. If asked why s/he bred a particular bitch to a stud dog, s/he should be able to explain and detail the traits of each dog and how the planned breeding may improve on it. A breeder who is "kennel blind" (one who thinks his dogs are perfect and does not realize the faults of his line) cannot hope to improve his line.

5. The breeder screens his prospective buyers thoroughly to find the qualified and the best homes for his puppies. Do not get offended by seemingly personal questions, i.e. type of dwelling, lifestyle, kids and ages, job and working hours, etc.; or even a home-check by the breeder. His puppies are his "babies" and he wants only the best homes for them.

6. The breeder willingly, openly, and honestly discusses his dogs, kennel, breeding program, etc. He should welcome these questions from prospective buyers and educate them about the breed at the same time.

7. The breeder's dog areas are well kept, clean, properly maintained and have no strong animal waste odors. The dogs are healthy, happy, well groomed and exercised.

8. The breeder should be able to back up his breeding program and provide fair warranties for health, temperament, conformation and quality of his puppies.

9. The breeder evaluates the traits of each puppy in his litter and matches them with the right owners. A dominant puppy in a litter should not be placed in a home with small kids; a submissive puppy should not be placed with a domineering and intimidating owner.

10. The breeder pledges his commitment to the life and welfare of every puppy he produces. He should offer his guidance and support to the new owner on how to properly care for the dog-- for the life of the dog. He should be ready to take back any puppy or dog he produced if the owner can no longer keep them. (This is in our contract!).

A BYB (backyard Breeder):
1. Motive for breeding: "fun," "Good for kids to see the miracle of life," "To make money." Doesn't screen buyers and seldom refuses to sell, even if buyer is unsuitable.
2. Breeds family pet to any convenient pet of same breed just to have purebred pups. Has no concern for genetics, bloodlines or breed improvement.
3. Though pet may be well-loved, it wasn’t x-rayed for hip dysplasia or checked for other heritable health problems.
4. Offers no health guarantees beyond proof of shots, if that. Unqualified to give help if problems develop.
5. Seller has little knowledge of breed history or AKC breed standard. May claim that this doesn't matter for "just pets." Breeds for, or from colors NOT accepted by the breed standard, breeds for 'fads'.
6. Pups raised in makeshift accommodations, indicating lack of long-term investment for breeding.
7. Even when selling "just pets," may produce AKC papers or "championship pedigree" as proof of quality. Yet seller doesn't increase own knowledge through participation in national or local breed club. Doesn't show his own dogs to "prove" quality.
8. May be unwilling to show buyer entire litter or to introduce dam of litter. Can't or won't compare/critique pups, or pups' ancestors.
9. Prices at low end of local range, since pups must move quickly. 10. No concern for the future of individual pups or breed as a whole. Doesn't use AKC's limited registration option or ask for spay/neuter contract to guard against breeding of substandard pets. If you can't keep pup, tells you to take it to the pound, or sell it.

####2) Why is their a large range in prices for the pups?
ANSWER: There is a difference between PET/COMPANION puppies, SHOW/PERFORMANCE puppies and/or pups/dogs that have already been through training, and may even be ready to become an assistance/service dog for someone else. The higher price is for dogs/pups that have had training.

####3) I hate to ask this.....What is the average life span of Promise puppies? Are their histories of cancer or other health issues that we should know about and be aware of (thyroid, elbow dysplasia, cataract)?
ANSWER: We try to keep in contact with all of our puppy families. We haven't had a litter of Goldens for...5 years (written in 2004). All of the puppies (well, okay, DOGS) are still happy and healthy as far as the owners have let us know. We do our best to send Christmas cards and absolutely LOVE to receive Christmas cards from many of our families. The life span of a Golden should be 13-15 years. We think it is important to feed a HIGH QUALITY FOOD (human grade food-- not rendered animals, see our homepage for more info), and NOT use pesticides on the grass or around our homes. If something is suspected of causing cancer or disease in people, I would STRONGLY caution you not to use it on your dog if you want them to live a long, healthy life.
We have not had any cancer, thyroid, heart, eye, coat or skin or hip problems so far in our Goldens. It is important to keep your pup (and later dog) at the CORRECT WEIGHT, not too fat, as this causes stress on joints. Also we explain the importance of not over-exercising (forced running) or jumping while the puppy is growing (at least until 18 months) as that can cause stress tears and break down of the joints, giving an opportunity for arthritic changes and dysplasia to occur. I have a reprinted article I include in our extensive puppy packet that was published in the Golden Retriever News in 2003 which talks about this.
We carefully screen all our breeding sires/dams. And while that doesn't guarantee the puppies they produce will not have any health issues, at least it gives you an idea of the health of the lines.

Sherman 1 yr old 4. The breeder can explain why s/he made the breeding. S/he should know what his lines produce; including health and conformation faults, and take the necessary steps to weed out those faults. If asked why s/he bred a particular bitch to a stud dog, s/he should be able to explain and detail the traits of each dog and how the planned breeding may improve on it. A breeder who is "kennel blind" (one who thinks his dogs are perfect and does not realize the faults of his line) cannot hope to improve his line.

5. The breeder screens his prospective buyers thoroughly to find the qualified and the best homes for his puppies. Do not get offended by seemingly personal questions, i.e. type of dwelling, lifestyle, kids and ages, job and working hours, etc.; or even a home-check by the breeder. His puppies are his "babies" and he wants only the best homes for them.

6. The breeder willingly, openly, and honestly discusses his dogs, kennel, breeding program, etc. He should welcome these questions from prospective buyers and educate them about the breed at the same time.

7. The breeder's dog areas are well kept, clean, properly maintained and have no strong animal waste odors. The dogs are healthy, happy, well groomed and exercised.

8. The breeder should be able to back up his breeding program and provide fair warranties for health, temperament, conformation and quality of his puppies.

9. The breeder evaluates the traits of each puppy in his litter and matches them with the right owners. A dominant puppy in a litter should not be placed in a home with small kids; a submissive puppy should not be placed with a domineering and intimidating owner.

10. The breeder pledges his commitment to the life and welfare of every puppy he produces. He should offer his guidance and support to the new owner on how to properly care for the dog-- for the life of the dog. He should be ready to take back any puppy or dog he produced if the owner can no longer keep them. (This is in our contract!).

A BYB (backyard Breeder):
1. Motive for breeding: "fun," "Good for kids to see the miracle of life," "To make money." Doesn't screen buyers and seldom refuses to sell, even if buyer is unsuitable.
2. Breeds family pet to any convenient pet of same breed just to have purebred pups. Has no concern for genetics, bloodlines or breed improvement.
3. Though pet may be well-loved, it wasn’t x-rayed for hip dysplasia or checked for other heritable health problems.
4. Offers no health guarantees beyond proof of shots, if that. Unqualified to give help if problems develop.
5. Seller has little knowledge of breed history or AKC breed standard. May claim that this doesn't matter for "just pets." Breeds for, or from colors NOT accepted by the breed standard, breeds for 'fads'.
6. Pups raised in makeshift accommodations, indicating lack of long-term investment for breeding.
7. Even when selling "just pets," may produce AKC papers or "championship pedigree" as proof of quality. Yet seller doesn't increase own knowledge through participation in national or local breed club. Doesn't show his own dogs to "prove" quality.
8. May be unwilling to show buyer entire litter or to introduce dam of litter. Can't or won't compare/critique pups, or pups' ancestors.
9. Prices at low end of local range, since pups must move quickly. 10. No concern for the future of individual pups or breed as a whole. Doesn't use AKC's limited registration option or ask for spay/neuter contract to guard against breeding of substandard pets. If you can't keep pup, tells you to take it to the pound, or sell it.

####2) Why is their a large range in prices for the pups?
ANSWER: There is a difference between PET/COMPANION puppies, SHOW/PERFORMANCE puppies and/or pups/dogs that have already been through training, and may even be ready to become an assistance/service dog for someone else. The higher price is for dogs/pups that have had training.

####3) I hate to ask this.....What is the average life span of Promise puppies? Are their histories of cancer or other health issues that we should know about and be aware of (thyroid, elbow dysplasia, cataract)?
ANSWER: We try to keep in contact with all of our puppy families. We haven't had a litter of Goldens for...5 years (written in 2004). All of the puppies (well, okay, DOGS) are still happy and healthy as far as the owners have let us know. We do our best to send Christmas cards and absolutely LOVE to receive Christmas cards from many of our families. The life span of a Golden should be 13-15 years. We think it is important to feed a HIGH QUALITY FOOD (human grade food-- not rendered animals, see our homepage for more info), and NOT use pesticides on the grass or around our homes. If something is suspected of causing cancer or disease in people, I would STRONGLY caution you not to use it on your dog if you want them to live a long, healthy life.
We have not had any cancer, thyroid, heart, eye, coat or skin or hip problems so far in our Goldens. It is important to keep your pup (and later dog) at the CORRECT WEIGHT, not too fat, as this causes stress on joints. Also we explain the importance of not over-exercising (forced running) or jumping while the puppy is growing (at least until 18 months) as that can cause stress tears and break down of the joints, giving an opportunity for arthritic changes and dysplasia to occur. I have a reprinted article I include in our extensive puppy packet that was published in the Golden Retriever News in 2003 which talks about this.
We carefully screen all our breeding sires/dams. And while that doesn't guarantee the puppies they produce will not have any health issues, at least it gives you an idea of the health of the lines.

####4) How many times do you breed your Dams? How old are they? How about the Sires? At what age do you retire your Sires and Dams? Do you think the age of the Golden matters when breeding them for healthy pups?
ANSWER: We never plan a breeding with the dams before they are at least 2 yrs old and have all their clearances. They ARE NOT allowed to be bred each and every time they come into season.
Our males are not allowed to breed until they are 2-3 years old. Goldens mature later than the smaller breeds. It is best to wait until your male is mature in ALL ways, not just physical. Also, the 2nd year they have filled out quite nicely and can hold their own in the conformation ring in the open class. They also have to pass all their clearances after the age of 2 years. The males are retired at the age of 9. Nowadays there is frozen semen. We check our boys every year to be certain of sperm count, health, motility. If needed, we would collect them for frozen semen to be used when we had a female that would go well with that male.

As for the age of the Goldens and production of healthy puppies… As a rule, the older the dam/sire the smaller the litter will be – in numbers. As a dam gets older, fewer eggs are released and scar tissue in the uterus may lead to a decrease in the number of eggs that can attach to the uterine wall.
The health of the puppies after being whelped depends on the dam’s ability to provide milk for food. As a young dam, this should pose no problem. Dam’s should be mature enough mentally to accept and take care of their puppies.

####5) How long has Promise been breeding Goldens?
ANSWER: (2004) We have been in Goldens for 13 years, breeding for 10, however we did have several years where we did not produce any puppies.

####6) Do you think the Puppy Aptitude Test is a good evaluation on puppies?
ANSWER: Depends on which one you use and who is doing the testing. We work with our puppies from day one. We start working on their manners at week 5. We know our puppies very well and can tell you about each one. One of the reasons we have a questionnaire is to help us match the right puppy to you/your family. How we decide on which puppy for whom is this: We allow show puppies to be picked first, before pet/companion pups. After that, we try to match pups with their new families.
We have found through trail and error, that this is better for the puppies. WHY? Because, say you are an elderly couple, in search of a wonderful, mellow dog. But you come to pick a puppy, and you mistakenly pick the quiet pup in the corner, thinking that is what you'll get. Well, that quiet pup was just gathering energy! It is the most outgoing and curious of the bunch - fearless. The wrong choice... you wouldn't get the pup you wanted, you would get one with a higher energy level, who may require more energy on your part than a puppy that is playing with a littermate. And what if you are an energetic, outgoing family that wants to take puppy everywhere? You decide to pick the little pup playing with the littermate because it's just sooooo cute, and see how it's going after that other puppy? How adorable. But your family should get the one taking the nap! Since we interact with the puppies from the moment they're born, we are in the position to help you with the choice of which puppy...will fit best in your family. That is one reason for the questionnaires, so we can get an idea of what you are wanting for your puppy. That is also why we have so many pictures of our last litters on the website, so the families could see them. Once they got older and started developing their personalities, we add the colored collars to keep them identified. Once we get a feel for each pup (by 6 weeks of age, and in many cases, it is by 5 weeks) we let you know who is what you're looking for. This is NOT to say you can't come and see, and play with your pup--YOU CAN!!! You are welcome anytime, but should make sure we are available (we have several dog shows).

####7) If we do not intend on breeding our male puppy, do you suggest neutering? Is a healthier dog spayed or neutered? ANSWER: ABSOLUTELY. Neutered dogs have NO CHANCE of developing testicular cancer. They are not interested in following the scent of some female in season. While some people feel neutering makes a male more trainable, we do not believe that is true for most males. Our intact boys are WONDERFUL and NOT AGGRESSIVE at all (and they SHOULDN'T BE!! Ask the other breeders about aggression too). Also, REMEMBER, ALL OF OUR PET/COMPANION PUPPIES ARE ONLY SOLD ON A SPAY/NEUTER AGREEMENT. We do, however, prefer you wait until females are 8 months old and males are at least 12 months before spaying/neutering. This is for the HEALTH of the animals.

WHEW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Well, I hope all that info helps you! Even if you don't get a pup from us, you should carefully screen ANY breeder. Knowledge IS power. An informed decision is THE BEST WAY to figure out the right breed of dog, and the right breeder to get him/her from.

GOOD LUCK in finding the right puppy and breeder. If we can be of any more help, please let me know. Again, thank you for your interest in our dogs!

(The above was written in 2004).

####8) I didn't see anything about the price that you sell pet companion golden retrievers for.

ANSWER: Our pet/companion pups prices depend on the breeding. If Dad and/or Mom have titles, the price is different than if they are just pointed. The range of prices is listed on the PUPPY QUESTIONNAIRE page. Most pet/companion pups are between $1450 and $1950.

####9) We're interested in knowing where you are located because after the litter is born, we would like to see the puppies.

ANSWER: We are in the Central Valley of California, near Fresno. You are more than welcome to come and visit. I suggest waiting until the litter is 5 weeks old. They get to go outside for the first time at 4 weeks.

####10) What tests and certifications do you get for golden retrievers?

ANSWER: As mentioned on our puppy questionnaire page (and other spots throughout the website) all our breeding stock have their hips, elbows, eyes, and heart clearances. I also get thyroid, but not on all, just depends on their pedigree.
Information on clearances is given to all puppy families/owners.

Please note that Pete doesn’t have elbows OFA’d. That is because the golden fancy had been doing hips (back when Pete was young), and in the last 4-5 years have strongly suggested elbows. Pete is now a veteran, and we DID have his elbows xrayed last year. He has no joint/structure problems at all. He does show some changes due to age, however.

####11) When you are socializing the new puppies, do you keep them in your home or are they outside kennel dogs?

ANSWER: ALL our puppies are INDOORS WITH US. They get to go outside at 4 weeks of age for the first time. I can't imagine how you can train a puppy to be a pet/companion dog if you only keep them outside in a kennel...

####12) What kinds of things do you do to socialize the new pups?

ANSWER: We socialize our pups in the beginning by having them in the kitchen so they learn all the noises associated with a family. We do NEUROLOGICAL STIMULATION from day 1. Once older, pups go on car trips. Starbucks. Walmart. I am in a wheelchair. This allows the puppies to go into many situations, and stay safe (in my lap) from “bad bugs”…. I believe pups/dogs take on the personality of the family they live with. We start the process of socializing. It’s up to you to continue it… We hope all our puppies will be blessed with a caring family, and not be bored in the backyard… (one of my pet peeves, and one of the reasons we have a puppy questionnaire!).

####13) If we decide to go ahead and put a deposit on one of your puppies, (and you are interested in selling a puppy to us after checking our references), what is your process for purchasing a puppy?

ANSWER: ONCE we receive a deposit for a certain litter (after speaking to your references and to you), the deposits are given a number--- as in first, second, third, etc..IF your chosen litter doesn’t produce the sex you want, you have the option of getting your deposit back or moving it to the next, upcoming litter of the same parents (the wait will be at least a year), OR another breeding---or getting a different sex from the chosen litter. WHO gets a puppy depends on WHEN we received the deposit. I will tell you that all our litters last year were sold out before they were born… ALSO, remember we do have a contract. ALL pet/companion pups are sold on a spay/neuter contract.